cheap bastard engine rebuild

Well, i got a PM from a member asking me how my half assed 403 ran so good even tho i cut some very important corners and did absolutely no machine work when the motor should have been completely gone thru... NO im def not going to condone any sort of engine building butchery.. and i simply believe i had luck on my side when i was an impatient 17yr old engine butcher/builder..

Im not going into detail on how i did it because ill get berated by our hardcore engine guys!! All im saying is that IMO if your going to do an engine build, either A.) do it right.. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do it right!! spend the money on a competent machinist who knows the brand of engine your putting together, not the clown i went to who put my rods on backwards and broke my block or B.) Dont do it all, get a good used running engine..

If you CANNOT afford a thorough rebuild there is one other option and i speak from experience!!! Track down a good running core, or even cheaper an engine that you no idea about, but your educated enough to know the signs of abuse and severe wear!!!

When you find a core whether running or not and you know u cant afford to rebuild it the PROPER WAY, these are some things you need to check in order to make the cheap bastard engine swap work..if you pass thru the check list you have a cheap bastard engine!!

1.) does it run? either way do a compression and leakdown test.. does it have decent consistant numbers? if so..GOOD!.. DO NOT REMOVE THE PISTONS AND DISTURB THE RING SEAL... if the numbers are lousy and dont improve with a wet compression check, its the valves leaking... no big deal, nothing a drill and some valve grinding compound cant fix.. but this is the most important part of making the cheap build work.. you have to start with good ring seal from the get-go..

2.) check spark plugs.. for a nice burn, not oiled down, or too rich/lean ya know.. nice even tanish color

3.)check the dipstick for excessive varnish.. too much means NEGLECT!! and that also can give u an idea on how the bearings look!! if it was neglected more than likely the bottom end will need work..

4.)pull the oilpan and valve covers, look for the milkshake!! and excessive crud.. again, if the engine is in the car, pull the covers, if its looks decently clean not too grimey and the valvetrain looks to be alright, well then chances are the bearings will be in similar shape...HOPEFULLY... Clean engines still spin bearings!!

5.)Moment of truth!! check the bearings!! check for obvious signs of wear and or damage.. if the crank has no obvious wear and the bearing still look good get out the plastigauge...

Basically.. to make this work, you need to have a good ring seal, and a good solid bottom end.. I got lucky with the 455.. it had both... cylinder pressure is around 150-160 (8.5 motor) and all the bearings were nice and within their limits..

Well im not going into detail but ill break down just exactly how much my 455 cost to screw together.. and ill list the source for my parts.. some things can be reused from your engine, but this is just what i bought...

1.) 1974 Olds 455 running complete $250 (member)
2.) Edel. SBO performer Cam and lifters (cam was used) $90 (member)
3.) Edel. Performer 455 intake $100 (member)
4.) Misc Felpro gaskets $10 Ebay
5.) fuel pump (opt) $16 ebay
6.) water pump (opt) $19 ebay
7.) oil pump Melling std. $20 (member)
8.) Holley 750 #3310 $50 (ebay)
9.) Dynagear timing set $16...
10.) oil pan $28 ebay.. no its not the lame chrome one either
11.) Autolite pro. wires $35 Advanced auto
12.) Summit racing HEI $170.. use a stock GM unit..
13.) Paint, Kerosene, misc chemicals cleaning supplies, oil filter $40

so do the math.. i spent roughly what?!? $674 on this.. and guess what?!?! did you notice a lot of the stuff you can ax off and get used!!

Im not saying this is the correct way to do anything... Or this is the correct way to go fast but ya know, not all of us are made of money, i sure aint.. I cant afford a $4000 engine build, so i found a good running core cleaned, gasketed, painted and slapped in, There are so many kids out there that want to go fast and they want to get dirty and learn but they simply cant afford the machine work, but i feel doing this will get them started, i know it sure helped me.. My 403s cylinders were like funnels, but i still slapped it together and it ran fine.. didnt burn oil or smoke.. but i cant Condone that.. I cant say its ok to rering and engine that got mondo ridges!! Its not right!! but hey, i got away with it I hope this helps someone!!

I scored this bad-boy for 100 bucks.. and 6 hrs later its already sold!!

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spring startup for sleeping cars...

Spring start-up.. ya.. its never a good idea to just crank and start a domant engine cause thats hell on the cylinder walls.. and the bearings.. well, for starters the crankcase should have a fresh sump of oil.. which you should have changed the following Fall.. anyways, make sure your battery is fully charged.. pull the spark plugs and shoot some Sea-foam or crc down there.. crank the engine with the plugs removed, to safely get the oil around everywhere without the load of compression on the pistons... then simply re-intall the plugs.. fire up the engine let it run at fast idle and take it up to temperature.. then simply change your oil again, since the engine was really never run.. you dont have to change the filter... and there you go.. you saved yourself the risk of ruining your engine! WOOT!